Viktor&Rolf Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 Paris
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“Mirror mirror on the wall,” this could be the tag line for the latest fashion outing for the Viktor & Rolf brand. As is customary, designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren picked one very specific starting point- this time it was mirrors- and extrapolated out from it to create a collection of gimmicky get ups.
 
But this season their machinations made for a rather good show, one that balanced the kooky with the commercial. So that for every four-pocket vest crafted out of topiary tulle there was a draped goddess dress in a flattering golden hue. Or after a white column dress embellished with mirrored pieces placed down one side, to form a series of bows, there would be a stylish perfecto vest with a sculptural ruffled finish paired with long pleated skirt.
 
The idea of the Hollywood golden age glamour could also be seen throughout the show. Besides the metallic lamé fabrics used to underline the mirror idea, there was the abstract inclusion of Lauren Bacall’s face imprinted on the leg of a pair of pants or plastered across a top. The glossy pastel satin pieces, often finished off with a big bow on the waist of paints or added volume to the shoulders of a button down top, was another way the designers added some old school style to the show.
 
The final result of this collection was rather like an old black and white movie that had been colorized. The show had a strong foundation but was trying too hard be too clever.

- Jessica Michault
 

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