At the Viktor & Rolf shows often the set design is a dead giveaway for what the designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have been inspired by that season. This time the graphic, forced perspective, white brick wall could really only be alluding to one thing- the album cover of Pink Floyd’s The Wall. And just in case anyone could possibly have missed the reference, the designer duo hammered the message home by playing the iconic "Another Brick in the Wall" song at the start of the show.
So what kind of dress goes perfectly with that particular Pink Floyd song? Why British school uniforms of course. Wasn’t it the lyrical voices of a group of those kids singing the refrain of the song that helped to make it so indelible in the world’s collective psyche?
And as it was a song about rebellion then those school boy blazers, crisp white shirts and plaid checked skirts have to have some sort of sartorial descent to them. So the designers cut their blazon blazers with off center buttons and a single shoulder or crafted them into a leather perfecto vest. Those white shirts, how about rows of metal spike adornments? And the plaid skirts, well they came embellished with punky safety pins. Even the pleats in the skits themselves revolted- coming out in some very cool flying buttress shapes.
It was hard to see anything in this collection that wouldn’t temp the offspring of the world’s one percenters. All of it was well thought out and wearable, with just the right amount of quirkiness to feel organic to the Viktor & Rolf playground.
Daria Shapovalova at Paris Fashion Week S/S 2014: Viktor & Rolf