Vionnet Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 Paris

The French Maison was lately subjected to quite a hustle and bustle after Vionnet's former owners Matteo Marzotto and Gianni Castiglioni hired Barbara and Lucia Croce in October 2011.  The Croce sisters soon had to part ways with the label, due to differences with the new majority stake holder. Meaning, this spring/summer 2013 collection was carried out solely by the atelier, who put together decent and coherent designs referring to Vionnet's enduring heritage, while skillfully playing around the fact that the brand is currently rather faceless.

Fluidity and movement has always been Madelaine Vionnet's leading topic; therefore, the used fabrics for spring are tactile and soft, uniting mostly silk jerseys and crêpe. The sensuous tailoring and hues express the very soul of the brand: airy silhouettes set a monochrome coloring, proposing casual costumes and dresses with graphic interplays of black and white, combined with feminine, bright red evening gowns, and jumpsuits. The general beauty of the collection also lies in the details: soft white tuxedos were adorned with black details and loose lapels, pearl embroideries on shoulder straps suggest some further refinement, while slinky cutouts on the hips and bare backs set a charming tone.

With the numerous other intriguing cases of designer musical chairs in major fashion houses that happened earlier this year, we already know that fashion is always ready for a new chess game. This said, nothing so far seems to be in the way of Vionnet's 100th anniversary celebration on September 30, where the label will introduce its Demi Couture collection.

- Elisabeta Tudor