Vionnet floated across the last morning of Paris summer 14 as lightly as a cloud, and charmed.
Reprising some elements from the classic Vionnet archives, Goga Ashkenazi demonstrated that she’s in tune with the high-low mood of the times. Easy shirting and t-shirts played with the dramatics of ultra-wide palazzo pants, and toned down the drama of a plissé diamond cut-out dress flowing to the ground. Further on, a yellow dress, looking simple from the front, bares the sides – as seen elsewhere this season – and then reveals a draped back revealing only one shapely shoulder blade. With the dressmaking heritage of Vionnet, the dresses couldn’t afford to be less than perfect.
There was a zen-like quality to Vionnet’s summer in the soft sky palette, and just a hint of shimmer, like the border of a cloud, introduced a crystalized web slipped over a boxy but soft t-shirt. It recalled Asian themes very lightly, mostly highlighted by Geta-inspired heels. Although in tune with the storytelling of this collection, and no doubt luxurious, the fur pieces felt superfluous.
Ashkenazi has clearly been clocking in at the archives. Her familiarity with the codes of Vionnet allows her to move through its codes with an eye for things to repurpose, and that will work today. From season to season, including her demi-couture, Goga Ashkenazi is narrowing the scope of her vision for Vionnet, a canny move that is shaping her groove for years to come.