With the majority of Vionnet's Spring/Summer 2016 lineup composed of long, liquid gowns that relied on pleating for their slinky movement, it wasn't immediately clear if this was a catch-up session for the brand's demi-couture or its ready-to-wear. There wasn't much that seemed particularly easy off the rails. Neither did the stones nestling in a palm to hold aloft a swath of fabric, nor the sheer nets thrown over gowns that spelled more death trap than protection for the precious cargo within, particularly when they featured no armholes. Even for the woman on a pedestal, accompanied by attendants to feed her delicate morsels, this would be a bit much.
Much less dissonant were the gowns that made full use of the delicate drapes and pleats that are part and parcel of the house's DNA. When the diaphanous layer became a part of the garment, it conveyed a breezy elegance. Tight trousers peeking from hemlines made for a contemporary spin. Occasionally veering off into the experimental, they were nonetheless interesting. The final look, a solid white sheath spliced with a burst of nude pleats in the side, embodied the way forward. That ethereal modernity felt right. Let's hope this solidifies in further seasons.