Another season, another utterly eccentric Vivienne Westwood show. The British fashion icon created yet again a jolly mess: think Vishnu, 60s prints – dots, circles, squares – and according to the designer, a focus on the Dark Ages.
This said, the Geisha inspired make-up and the long hair plaits adorned with plastic ribbons, as well as tassel earrings and wrist-bounded gloves added a rather futuristic look to the supposedly medieval silhouettes. Westwood's new autumn-winter 2013/14 collection was just as disturbing as the show's medley soundtrack, mingling Indian beats with bagpipe music. It was audacious and exaggerated, it jumped from one fast rhythm to another, it was old and new at the same time – and above all, it had a great power of attraction. Her prominent punk features seemed to have inspired more than one designer: Versace, Moschino, Miharayasuhiro, Junya Watanabe and many more played with British punk aesthetics this season.
Like always, her cloaked overcoats and blanket-like capes came with a slacker attitude. Thus, the irregular cuts, the draped and voluminous fits that made her signature style were not to be missed. Pastoral flower embroidery on A-line dresses and tuxedos, as well as opulent brocade on a coat and its matching pants, worn with a scarlet belt, a cropped black top and red platform shoes, were particular eye-catchers. Among the further worth-watching garments, a row of evening suits and twinsets appeared, with pointed shoulders, notched lapels and feminine waists.
Nothing boundary-breaking this season, but Vivienne Westwood is the type of designer that can rest on her laurels very well. Who else but the Queen of Punk could get away with such a fashionable concoction? Talking about past success stories, the MET Museum in New York is dedicating an exhibition to the golden age of punk, named "Punk: Chao to Couture", that will kick off on May 9 and feature Malcolm McLaren's and Vivienne Westwood's "Seditionaries" boutique at 430 King's Road in London. As we all know, Westwood is the master of explosive fashion. And yes, she did it again.
- Elisabeta Tudor