What Will Be In Your Wardrobe Next Season?

This is possibly the first season there is no real answer to what has now become something of an over-prescriptive question. In case you hadn’t noticed, fashion is in flux right now – which means our wardrobes will be too. Next season will be, to some degree, seasonless. And you’ll be able to swipe what you see straight from the catwalk while at the same time taking for a spin what you saw this time round (well, for certain brands). Yet despite an ongoing move away from “trends” these days in fashion, there were certainly some new moods and movements to be welcomed. Here they are:

 

( Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)

 

State of Undress

The disheveled oversize silhouette rekindled by Vetements – and coined originally by Margiela – was played out by everyone in one way or another. New York provided a reminder at the beginning of the season as to what this meant (layer a dress over a T-shirt and then another, long sleeves, unisex street dressing) and Paris, where it all began, saw the likes of Stella McCartney hop on board the trend too – adding her own layer of polish for her more practical brand of woman. Of course, it’s a look that stylistically belongs to certain brands anyway so it was no surprise to see it play out at Marques’ Almeida or get luxed up at Y/Project. But what was interesting to see was how it slipped into the repertoire of brands for whom we wouldn’t have had the look pegged. Trend!
How to fast-track yourself? Oversized T-shirts, jumpers, and outerwear are your best friends here – layer them up with a Nineties slip dress, which still wasn’t going anywhere…

 

( Elizabeth Pantaleo for NOWFASHION)

 

Playing Dress Up

It was a season about rediscovering fashion personality. Do you own a fuzzy stole? Do you own a pillbox vintage hat? Do you know how to do siren chic? Gucci, Prada, Miu Miu, and Christopher Kane were among the key names who championed a dressing-up-box spirit. Miss Havisham and Norma Desmond proved to be the wardrobe heroines of choice when it came to Milan. Layers here were about costume as opposed to Vetements’ street references. It was about glamour and grandeur. But if you couldn’t decide between the two, Marc Jacobs did a pretty good job of combining them. What you need? A fuzzy stole – the season’s default accessory. The question is: does it work in real life though?

 

(Anna Palermo for NOWFASHION)

 

The New Guard

Paris, once known only for its storied heritage houses, has now found itself in the spotlight for its new wave of young talent too. The scene is a hotbed of new names and those that have been quietly there in the background now coming to the fore. Arguably, Paris made sure it was the most exciting capital in which to be this season, though it felt like there was a shift starting to occur in Milan too. Arthur Arbesser showed a standout collection for Iceberg, where he’s managing to take the brand’s roots and make them entirely relevant for today. Au Jour Le Jour, too, showed the fashion capital’s fun and youthful side.

 

(Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)

 

Nothing To Wear? That’s OK…

For all the rumours and stories, red herrings and movements, appointments and absences, you could be forgiven for missing what was on the actual catwalk and instead be caught up in all of the off-runway antics that so preoccupied everyone. A new see-now-buy-now system; who would land the Lanvin role; what would we make of Balenciaga; what would we make of Saint Laurent.
But, seriously, if you don’t have anything to wear (or more accurately want to wear), invest in a great coat – outerwear was especially strong this season.

 

(Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)

 

The Red Carpet Revival

While our wardrobes might have become streetwear-orientated of late (go on, there’s always space for another sweatshirt) and London is a capital known for its eclectic taste, there was a distinct presence of red-carpet-readiness when it came to collections – an often overlooked London sensibility. Julien Macdonald, of course, leads the pack when it comes to a sheath of non-existent sequins while David Koma really wowed with his stealth silhouettes and power dresses. Charge.

 

(Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)

 

The LPD

The Little Paris Dress. Where the other capitals were swept up in layers, Paris did knockout dresses that required nothing more than a jaw drop. Nina Ricci, Valentino, Saint Laurent.

 

And lastly, some….

Fashion Foot Notes

 

( Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION)

*Last season’s prairie dresses are still hanging around – only just.

 

(Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION)

*The Seventies and Eighties are still very much in designers’ minds – and consequently your wardrobe. JW Anderson, Isabel Marant, and Saint Laurent stood out for the latter.

 

(Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)

*A nod to David Koma at Mugler – this collection felt like there was a solid distinction between his own eponymous line.

 

(Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)

*Jane Austen’s Emma might just be stepping into the limelight as a fashion reference – Bill Gaytten showed empire line dresses at John Galliano and they felt fresh, dainty, and new.

 

(Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)

*Bag-wearing should be done a la Proenza Schouler and Valentino – worn across the body and tucked neatly under the arm (practical, safe, and stylish).

 

(Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)

*Shoes and feathers go together like… Autumn/Winter 2016. The garnish of accessory choice.

 

(Valerio Mezzanotti for NOWFASHION)

*Never mind double denim, Miu Miu put forward a case for double brocade. Try it.

 

(Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)

*The Gucci effect isn’t going anywhere – fashion continues to be bitten by the bohemian bug.

 

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