Y-3 Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 New York
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Y-3 Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 New York Credits: Alessandro Lucioni
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Y-3 Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 New York Credits: Alessandro Lucioni
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Y-3 Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 New York Credits: Alessandro Lucioni
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“Meaningless Excitement,” the title of Yohji Yamamoto’s Summer 14 collection at Y-3 could have well been a commentary on the front row scrum around the cap and sunglass wearing person who turned out to be Justin Bieber – under the cap, down to the ears, and oversized sunglasses could have been anyone really – and the bench of Chinese celebrities whose names are not well known in Western media.

But that was all secondary to the Japanese designer’s work for the sportswear brand, which, if not as mind-bending as his main line, did offer enough asperities to make this a show worth paying close attention to.  Sunsets over city vistas, and then the watercolor blurring of a multitude of neons, those trippy shades dominated the first part of the show.  Throw in a smidgen of tailoring and plenty of likable pieces in there for her, starting with a well-executed white suit with a matte satin look to it, right down to the outright sporty offerings of his activewear. And his menswear although slightly more limited showed, through athletic quasi-skorts worn on men, that he’s not without options.

“Y-Me?” asked the thick soles of several pairs of creepers. Who else than you, Mr Yamamoto? A foursome of black dresses, a trench closed by an extra-wide leather belt, a voluminous bustle dress and matching pilgrim skullcap trimmed in the Adidas three-stripes, closely followed by two black dresses complete with floppy hats seen in the not-so-distant past on his Paris catwalk.

He too has tapped into the laid-back sportswear vein that’s opened up, and while there were some reminiscences of a decade that’s been bandied about way too much already, it felt appropriate rather than contrived.

Throughout the show, a group of musicians banged away on drums and various containers – gas canisters, upturned paint pots of various sizes – providing a thrumming aural backdrop that evoked a beating heart. A few hundred hearts beat as one as Yohji Yamamoto sat down for a drum solo in lieu of a salute, and in that moment, the excitement was perhaps not so meaningless.

- Lily Templeton

 

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