Y Project Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
Slideshow
Gallery
10
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-73.jpg
11
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-74.jpg
12
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-81.jpg
13
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-85.jpg
14
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-86.jpg
15
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-88.jpg
16
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-97.jpg
17
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-105.jpg
18
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-110.jpg
19
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-111.jpg
20
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-112.jpg
21
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-113.jpg
22
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-115.jpg
23
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-116.jpg
24
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-118.jpg
25
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-122.jpg
26
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-123.jpg
27
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-131.jpg
28
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-143.jpg
29
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-144.jpg
30
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-145.jpg
31
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-149.jpg
32
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-150.jpg
33
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-153.jpg
34
Y_PROJECT-SS2015-157.jpg

Referencing the 90s may sound like a cop-out  shortcut to "no design" designs but Y/Project's Glenn Martens proved that in the right hands, even the most dressed down decade holds referential appeal. The next summer months will thus see crisp linens cut in modernist, adaptable - zips and clips and vents and more - pieces that have a utilitarian luxury to them. Dropping a dash of lime in his urban palette woke up the lot, as did his print of prismatic light, giving a hint of trompe l'oeil iridescence. In a nutshell, giving it definition without adding superfluous effects.

The subtleties of his designs, coupled with the sharp lines that he imparts to his work, made for movement that caught the eye beautifully; leg vents and back flaps caught the slightest breath of air to ripple, and zippered sides betrayed the possibilities event when fully closed. But beyond the knee jerk appeal of the silhouettes, the long interludes of feminine silhouettes made for a distraction that almost obscured the quiet strength of Martens' menswear. Because while his men are the incarnation of the street-aware, urban and design-savvy - if a little buttoned up - man about town, his women are temptresses that steal the limelight.

That being said, the designer is well on his way to making Y/Project come into its own, and continue the vision of its late founder by building on it. But if Martens is to make the menswear stand on its own two feet, he should perhaps consider letting it stand alone. As it were, his penchant and excellence in womenswear tripped up  the ensemble, not for lack of talent but by offering up too many.

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
OTHER COLLECTIONS
Y Project Spring Summer 2021
49 PHOTOS
Y Project Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2020 Paris
170 PHOTOS
Y Project Menswear Fall Winter 2020 Paris
121 PHOTOS
Y Project Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2020 Paris
222 PHOTOS
Y’s by Yohji Yamamoto Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
20 PHOTOS
Miharayasuhiro Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
78 PHOTOS
Saint Laurent Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
139 PHOTOS
Thom Browne Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
80 PHOTOS
Umit Benan Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
52 PHOTOS
Paul Smith Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
98 PHOTOS
Y-3 Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
Y-3
72 PHOTOS
Rynshu Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
103 PHOTOS