It was this summer that Y/Project scooped the industry-prestigious and lucrative-prize-funded ANDAM Award; but the label, headed up by Glenn Martens, had been receiving industry praise and fashion hype long before that. In league with Vetements, and sometimes too much so, it was a brand that shook up Paris with its blend of renegade oversize. It's a blend, in fact, that had started to become repetitive. Until today. This was Y/Project moved on, developed, sophisticated!
Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION
Finesse came in the execution of those same shapes and pieces to open; they left the urban-street-real-life element of the brand behind and upped its game, which gave new life and context to a tried-and-tested signature. There was knitwear and there were sexy dresses, costume moments with wafts of clouds surrounding dresses or articulating what has become known as that Y/Project supersize box-shape. It wandered into the avant-garde just as much as it did wearable terrain. There were new levels and layers of luxe, quality, and depth – from idea through to final thing: from sexy dresses outlined with pearls or diamanté, to joggers that sparkled here and there to taking those now signature massive proportions and applying them to skirts.
Fleeces and cardigans and fine knits – there was an expansion of ideas, yet they were simultaneously refined.
In what has been not the most exciting start to Paris Fashion Week, Y/Project finally provided some remedy – and proved that you don't have to show so very many looks to do so.