Yigal Azrouël is an athlete—he spends much of his down time at the beach in Costa Rica where one of his passions is surfing—so it’s no surprise that “sporty” is in the vernacular often used to describe the designer’s aesthetic. For spring, the Israeli-born continued to play up his active side, this time juxtaposing the popular landscape of black against white, hard against soft.
In the spirit of the maximalist minimalists Helmut Lang, Jil Sander and Yohji Yamamoto, natural materials like cotton, canvas and leather dominated the lineup of simple separates and day dresses that one can easily imagine throwing on après-beach, poolside or on a hot Manhattan day. Indeed, nature’s architecture was a powerful underlying theme for Azrouël, whose body skimming silhouettes—modeled to the music of Canadian musician Grimes—were just forgiving enough to ride the fence of feminine and androgynous. “Irreverent style, linear forms,” he said backstage of the waffle knit maxi dresses. “She’s a woman who’s fragile but strong—and always pure.”
The color palette reflected the opposing moods: optic, ice and heather grey faced off against cactus, jet quartz and midnight.For every lightweight and breathable day dress there was a chunky knit or subtle leather trim to offset the look. Together, they emphasized a “shade of shadows” effect that Azrouël showed with aplomb. And while the hoods symbolized protection, there was no blood to be shed here. “You can touch her,” he affirmed.
- Jim Shi