Yohji Yamamoto Menswear Fall Winter 2012 Paris

The achingly beautiful notes of Massive Attack’s Teardrop, as covered by folk singer Jose Gonzalez, played as Yohji Yamamoto’s fashion collection was presented inside the Yamamoto headquarters in Paris tonight. Yamamoto’s voyage of elegant masculinity continued with a visual theme of ‘meeting at the crossroads’ with the models, led by Casey Taylor, slowly zig-zagged around multiple runways that peeled from a central point like points of a lone, jagged star.

The consideration and contemplation put into Yamamoto’s menswear designs is always evident be it via a subtle double fold on an overcoat, a raised shirt collar that’s accentuated by taking away lapels on a jacket or rare flashes of near fluorescent colour to catch the eye. The main colour palette, textured greys, peat greens, sand and sultry blues always evoke bruised and melancholic skies of lush Irish countryside meanwhile Yamamoto always implies a man on the move. There were vibes of businessman meets travelling horseman from the movies of Alejandro Jodorowsky today infact musical refrains that evoked the film compositions of Ennio Morricone were played at one point.

Plenty of inspiration from Victorian military attire infused this collection. Large gold buttons were all over long and thick woollen jackets, in particular one mid-length jacket worn by a model with long blonde hair that had an inner layer that fell gently away to reveal a raw cotton shirt. Layering, warmth against strong winds and natural, raw materials was the main theme. The Yamamoto man is in touch with nature and yet again, shown through fantastic casting (that Yamamoto is personally involved in), we were shown that the Yamamoto man is of all ages and size. He may be a fashion designer but Yohji’s aesthetic principles honour what’s going on inside the mind and heart of his clientele.

- Sarah Hay