Yohji Yamamoto Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris

Ever a careful mixologist of his own inspirations, Yohji Yamamoto rarely shares his recipes. In a way, loath to turn to the past or future, he exists in the here-and-now, and objects that are drawn into his stream of thought merely inform his design process. However, the Scottish references, though intermittent, were unmistakable as was the opening soundtrack of bagpipes.

For his fall-winter 2013/2014 collection, Yamamoto further delves into masculinity with relish of one who, in his fourth decade in the business, has mastered its alchemical ways. At some point in the interval, last season’s brawling boys cleaned up into men, pretty confident ones at that. After all, it takes a man to wear a kilt without looking like a daft tourist.Yamamoto chose models with enough presence to pull it off, despite their youth barely obscured behind extravagant 19th century facial hair.

A master tailor, he revamped the suit carefully: discreet kilt straps serving to fasten jackets, sheepskin peeking out from a slit in pleating, butcher’s apron covering-up a suit. Old habits die hard, but while his collection featured plenty of his well-loved black in varying depths and textures, color was infused throughout as a discreet touch of heather here, a smart purple silk tie there, a surprising metallic trouser, or even a resplendent complete suit cut from white and red tartan.

Variations on handsome suits of early twentieth century workers, from the butcher and his apron, to suits reminiscent of Sunday's best outfit, provided opportunities to slip in pieces from Regulation, his uniform-inspired endeavor first introduced last September and in their modern reinterpretation, served to outlined Yamamoto's commitment to the here-and-now.  

- Lily Templeton