Yohji Yamamoto Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 Paris
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Yohji Yamamoto was unwilling to expand on his inspirations, explaining backstage that he didn’t have a specific theme, but wanted to recapture the essence of summer, a joyful period that lingers in the mind even decades later.  As a result, his spring/summer 2013 collection seemed shrouded in gauzy, trailing swatches of fabrics, like a bleeding Polaroid.



His sound track oscillated between sweet, fun, and romantic songs mixed with rock'n'roll tracks that implied a sense of rupture between real life and the rest of the collection. Yohji’s new line, Regulation, was inspired by various uniforms- from school to work- these elements were incorporated into the Yohji Yamamoto makeover; which meant oversized proportions, trailing elements and flair.



The cuts he designed are not for everyone and may seem downright impossible to handle- lest one has his eye for theatrics. Overdo the Yamamoto look and you’re only one step away from being mistaken for a hobo.  Slightly asymmetrical coats jut out, falling off the hip to be recaptured and tied at the back.

Pops of color with monochromes evoke a palette of kisses, poppy red, fuchsia, fire orange, but felt halfhearted. On the other hand, give him olive canvas and he turns it into a dream of a jacket. Giant necklaces, featuring huge “beads” and driftwood are, he explained, taken from different primitive cultures, but meant to be fun like children’s interpretations of them. Khaki canvas became a great military inspired zippered vest, while boiled wool turned into a school girl’s dream outfit. “I’m looking at what it means to be sexy,” Yamamoto said, and to him it means having attitude.

Yohji Yamamoto is at his best when he de-structures a suit to the point where it looks like it was hung, drawn, and quartered. But when dealing with draping and diaphanous materials, he seems out of his element. This rosy-hued trip down memory lane will be best remembered by his tailored pieces, one of the founding pillars of his work and one that has never let him down.

- Lily Templeton
 

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