Z Zegna Menswear Fall Winter 2012 Milan

Zegna’s show kicked off with a house classic: a three button suit jacket, pleated tapered trousers, brown leather loafers. Chic, a tad retro but very wearable.

There were a few more solid suits to follow – the brand’s trademark, let's not forget — but these didn’t dominate the runway.

On the contrary, it soon turned to a mix of vintage and sporty references.

Leather gloves, aqua cardigans with a zip then light, military-inspired anoraks toned down the rather grown-up silhouettes. Yet the theme of the collection seemed to revolve around rain protection: waxed and belted trenchcoats, some structured, some slouchy with an elastic belt, all in deep sapphire blue with a matching umbrella, provided ideal gear for anyone planning to spend Fall in the rainy British countryside.  Laptop cases were also on show, the new man-bag of the season, surely.

The color palette evolved into something a tad more daring, with a pinch of 70s: peacoats with beige chinos broke the monochrome looks, and were soon followed by cobalt and taupe jumpers, or a deep purple hooded coat worn with a geometric patterned top.

As for the fashion statement du jour, a cropped anorak worn on top of a classical suit will surely be adopted by those looking to be hipster-executives.

-Alice Pfeiffer