Zac Posen Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 New York
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Stick with the same style long enough and eventually the fashion world will swing back around and make it “fashionable” again. This is the situation that Zac Posen is currently in.

The recent announcement that Charles James – he of the duchess satin ball gowns so famously captured by his buddy Cecil Beaton in a 1948 Vogue shoot- would be the focus of the next Costume Institute exhibition, has Posen sitting pretty. The designer is in prime position to dress fashion’s beautiful people in his very nostalgic notion of style.

His spring summer show, like all of his collections, focused on highly feminine, often floral, designs.  Created for life’s event moments- galas, weddings, state dinners, meeting the queen of England.  But this time his show, with models looking like the living incarnation of fairy princesses - their hair covered in a smattering of fabric flowers, felt more disconnected from reality then usual.

Gowns were awash with flower motif fabrics that billowed out from hips, bloomed from the bosom or cascaded in thick folds of fabric down strapless dresses. When Posen moved away from the pastel floral designs he used corseted construction and tiered or pleated fabric to create ensembles that so closely followed the female form; it’s hard to imagine how anyone would be able to do more then just stand still and pose in them. Forget trying to climb into a car or powder your nose.

Posen clearly lives in a world of feminine fantasy. Which is fine- fashion needs dreamers-  but every once in a while it is good to have a reality check.

- Jessica Michault

 

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