Zegna recycling and Dsquared 25th anniversary opened Milano Fashion Week

Louder voices can make more noise. And, if the noise marks the rhythm of change, its the best music to hear.  In this occasion, the speaker was Ermenegildo Zegna, one of the most important Italian names within the industrial groups and excellence in fabric manufacturing, and the loud voice was the process of sustainable innovation that the company started one year ago, developing it at a very fast pace. It all started from a single look during the January 2019 show. Today the selection is wider and presented in this collection featured a lot of precious and synthetic fibres recycled in new luxury fabrics 2.0. The research on exclusivity has gone from the tiny selection of wools woven at the San Patrignano rehab community labour to the "Achill" precious fibre reused. "We aim to hit the 95% conversion of wastes in few years," explained Alessandro Sartori, Creative Director before the show. "We realized that it's possible and we are really working on it to make it happen. This is our mindset, not anymore a project". The brand is putting sustainability on top of everything and the clothes seem to be just one of the elements of a much bigger plan. "Art for Earth" is the name of the next fall-winter show and of the installation – open to visitors until January 31st – that stood out in the venue, realized by the American artist Anne Patterson using ribbons from the Zegna production waste. They have then been used to create a floating airy cube where models were able to walk through it. Sartori reshaped the silhouette starting from tailoring, a technique he has mastered very well over time. “I'm excited to challenge myself in turning again the classic wardrobe cool anew,” explained the designer. “I want to make sure the young generations start dressing with a suit or, even better, help them to discover a part of the men's garments that they never considered interesting. This season I rediscovered the waistcoat and it can be used alone and not only with the three-piece suit. The idea would be a two-piece with just it and a pair of trousers, of course, redesigned in a more contemporary way.” The layers were another styling trick that managed to turn a classic wardrobe into a more appealing one. “I liked to play with length and volumes in order to refresh the usual winter look: the sporty blouson could be worn over the suit showing the jackets underneath. All the coats have been inspired by the A shape of the "loden" but more enlarged and exaggerated.” The iconic German camera brand Leica will collaborate with the company for a future photographic project in regards to modern masculinity seen through women's eyes. The work that Sartori is doing as Zegna doesn't just cover the mere creation of the collection but the whole industrial process of production as well, a process that often overshadows the beautiful simplicity of designing clothes.

 

In the evening, Dsquared2 also hosted their celebration party. For its 25th anniversary, the brand organized a fashion show and, later in the evening, 2.000 people were invited to a party – a big gift that Dean and Dan Caten made to themselves and to the brand's family. At the entrance of the venue, field size images were showing Dsquared2's new advertising campaign about present and future and, at the end of the show, another trailer with the most meaningful moments of their lives and career remembered their past two decades and a half. “We wanted to look back upon our 25-years of work and rethink our style staples,” explained the twins backstage before the show. “All our codes are there but updated and redesigned. Canada, our homeland, the woodsy and lumberjacks flair, the denim, the grunge, the leather are all there, now reshuffled in a 2020-2021 version. Also, there will be the one of our favourite comic strip from the Seventies which we grew up with "Love is..." by New Zealand cartoonist Kim Casali which was inspired by a series of love notes she drew for her future husband, that for the jubilee will see us as characters. We wanted to deliver also a positive message as we are happy and grateful  that after 25 years we are still here and excited to design clothes." The collection was less bulky than usual and more elongated, even though the multiple layers (one of the brand's signatures) were still there. The models looked wiry and this gave lightness to the silhouette that played with micro and macro items. The show included a live performance by the iconic American group Sister Sledge that performed the iconic hit "We Are Family", the song that kicked off the night long huge party.

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