Driven largely by a Sixties theme, Z Zegna's fall winter 2014/5 men's collection didn't fall short of references to Mod subculture.
Models fashioned with fringe hair styles wore bold awning striped knits, mustard color outerwear, cropped and over sized cuff pants, and obviously a lot of black turtlenecks -- bringing us back to Swinging London.
Tailoring was also largely reminiscent of the 1960's. Double-breasted and single breasted three-button suits bore lapels that merge just above the heart.
In contrast, garter sleeves figured prominently, transporting us to the days of the Prohibition. Shadow pinstriped vests, paired with matching trousers and hairline striped shirts, conjured images of the early-20th century postman, bank teller or speakeasy barman.
Contemporary windowpane and graph checks on wool suits infused the collection with contemporary multi-media obsessed culture.
Paul Surridge, who worked for Burberry and Jil Sander, has been tapped to build Ermenegildo's Zegna's younger, fashion forward Z Zegna label. This collection definitely carries over traces from Burberry's British heritage and the clean, bold elements that characterize Jil Sander's men's label. However, the collection's informal quirky sartorial style definitely set it apart from other, more traditional plays on the English gentleman motif that we have seen a lot of this season.